I have to admit that Contrast has changed my painting quite a bit, even though I never actually use it for painting whole miniatures as advertised. But to save time on organic textures and smaller details like all those pouches and belts that won’t catch your attention, they are fantastic. They’re also great for thinning into washes or glazes. I used Contrast glazes to shade my classic 2nd Edition Ultramarine, for example. This way of painting skin isn't that different to what I'd normally do but it takes the hassle out of trying to lay down a smooth basecoat.

Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated!Highlight the Red, Amber, Green traffic lights with Evil Sunz Scarlet, Dorn Yellow and Moot Green, respectively. Since this is a board game with a bunch of mooks and I have other armies on the go already, I decided to go for simplicity other then a few things I thought would be fun.

Mephiston Red: a bright, bold red that can provide a striking contrast against the cool tones of the grey. Tan and grey hard plastic figures: 6 mounted battalia commanders, 6 ensigns, 6 mounted cornets, 14 combined pike & shot regiments (80 soldiers each), 36 commanded shotte, 60 cavalry, 12 cuirassiers, 18 mounted dragoons, 30 dismounted dragoons, 6 Saker cannon and 6 Falconet light guns The Army Painter promises that Speedpaint is a real “one coat paint” and provide a consistent feel across the range. You can see it in the paint swatch below – the results of Speedpaints are more homogenous, whereas there is a broader distribution between light and dark in Contrast paints. Features Similarly, you can probably get in some variation on the woods for the muskets, which are the next step. They tend to be fairly flat on most models, so I generally painted the wood a solid color and left them be. The metallics I kept pretty plain, as I didn’t want to make them look too parade-ground polished. There are some brass details here as well, which you’ll find on the basket hilts of the swords as well as in some details on the musket.Astra Militarum: The Astra Militarum, also known as the Imperial Guard, are a human army that relies on heavy tanks and artillery. Basilicanum Grey would be a great choice for painting their tanks and other vehicles, as well as any fortifications they might use. Highlight the leather in an irregular, scratchy way with Scorched Brown, an old, discontinued paint [you can also mix a little bit of Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone in Rhinox Hide].

Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see. Highlight Flesh with Citadel Karak Stone, the red areas with VGC Sun Yellow and the off-white areas with white. Tyler Mengel is here with a new guide to making models look great easily, and he’s turned his attention from the Mortal Realms to the far future – specifically the aeons-old warriors of the Necrons. Take it away, Tyler.

Lastly, there isn’t much yellow, but you’ll find a bit on the collar as well as the pompoms. I kept this nice and saturated, as it’s such a small detail that it should be called out. I went all over the yellow on the pompom with the wash, but didn’t really use it on the collar. You could use it to define the color barrier between red and yellow but it’ll be kind of hard to see. You could also use it for sergent or corporal stripes on the uniforms. Basecoat the purity seal with Khemri Brown, which is an old discontinued paint [you can also use Baneblade Brown]. Now for the floors. Unfortunately, I didn’t really take many WIPs for these, but to be honest the process is not super complicated. You do: